首先,第一季的costume designer Tom Broecker是因纸牌屋和SNL拿着双料Outstanding Contemporary Television Series提名的大热门,之前凭着SNL和30 Rock还拿过Emmy几次的提名,曝光率还挺高的……
第一季
女主 Claire Underwood (Robin Wright)
这张照片被拿来讲的最多了,黑裙是Zac Posen, 腰带是Antonio Berardi, 包是YSL Muse。
设计师Thomas Broecker表示她的衣服大多是neutral-hued tailored styles
颜色:黑,灰,白(比较少) — 衣服是她的战袍,黑色代表她渴求的权力
剪裁: 简洁,合身 — 得体,她是congressman的妻子,自己也有独立的事业
款式:1 piece + 2 piece裙装为主,设计师表示整个第一季她只穿过两次裤装……
牌子:
- Dress:Narciso Rodríguez, Armani, Ralph Lauren, Zac Posen
- Shirt: Theory
- Others: Banana Republic, L’Wren Scott, Calvin Klein, Ann Taylor Loft
- Outfit:Burberry
- Footwear: Louboutins
关于Narciso Rodríguez,备注一点是Obama在2008年竞选成功的时候,第一夫人Michelle Obama挑了Narciso Rodríguez 2009秋冬系列的礼服。
The idea initially was to be a modern day Lady Macbeth—she wears her clothes as armour. They had to be completely tailored, but not too noticeable because she’s a politician’s wife. She does run a foundation, so it was about looking good but not standing out. She wears clothes to protect herself.
I want her to be woman and not just be the political
关于这只包,当然是贵的,但是设计师说到政客的妻子们是不会公然炫富也不会拿着最新一季的款式出现的,所以Thomas Broecker选了过季并且大到可以随意塞电脑和文件的款式。
还有一张点击率很高的,特别之处是领口的设计
男主 Frank Underwood (Kevin Spacey)
定制的Gieves & Hawke,好吧bespoke tailoring本来就是政客们的选择,更何况是Savile Row一号店呢
Thomas Broecker表示男主的每一件衬衫都花了八个小时来改领口袖口
颜色 – 灰,蓝,黑
Zoe Barnes (Kate Mara)
唯一的一件战袍,虽然用了push-up加强胸线,勾引到F.U.的还是她的臀线
Thomas Broecker表示这件衣服是Zara,为了看起来有Azzedine Alaia的感觉改了改,所以在剧中这件战袍是小姑娘唯一的一件高级定制,还被迫(小记者穷嘛,买不起第二件定制了嘛)穿着出席了两次重要场合
日常装的代表 – American Eagle
小记者的所有衣服都是廉价款-Zara, Topshop, Urban Outfitters,配合她收入不高,年纪轻的形象吧
第二季
Costume designer只列了两位Gersha Phillips(三个chapter)和Johanna Argan(一个chapter),两位都没有受到特别的赞誉(第二季女主穿衣水准下降了呗)
But the wardrobe of Claire Underwood, played by Robin Wright — which was arguably Broecker’s crowning achievement in the first season — feels off
比如这张Johanna Argan采访稿的配图
虽然Johanna Argan(House of cards是她的电视剧处女秀)同样表示Claire的穿戴要显示出她的power and strength in femininity,上面这张图真没看出来她要表达的东西啊……
Claire的装束依然延续High-Low的搭配(一件便宜的搭一件贵的,整体不掉价),牌子也还是Theory, Neiman Marcus, Burberry, Zara, The Row, Akris Punto, Theory, Gucci这些第一季就有用到的
但Johanna Argan好歹是男主的御用stylist!男主的穿着还是受到赞(bào)誉(yuàn)的!
第二季U.F.除了Burberry几乎没有别的牌子了!除了Ralph Lauren!
资料来自
‘House of Cards’ Costume Designer Tom Broecker Talks Beltway Style
The Costume Designer Behind House of Cards, SNL and 30 Rock Tells All
House of Cards-Tom Broecker Costume Designer
‘House of Cards’ Costume Designer Did Not Stay On for Season 2 and It Shows
Behind the Wardrobes of House of Cards’ Power Players
http://www.elle.com/news/culture/claire-underwood-house-of-cards
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