还是补充在这里吧。
@啥啥 的回答里提到小孩穿女装是欧洲王室的历史。正好我最近看了点关于十九世纪时尚的书,里面提到,其实这不止是欧洲王室,而是整个社会的传统。说白了,就是把女性和儿童划在了一类。
比如,像“让小孩和妇女先走”这样的话,在现代女性主义者看来,就是一种歧视,暗藏着女性和小孩一样,是需要被保护的一类人。
衣服是这种区别的一种表现。
《圣经》的《申命记》22:5 里有云:
妇女不可穿男子的服装;男子也不可穿妇人的衣服;因为这样作的人,都是耶和华你的神厌恶的。(The woman shall not wear that which pertaineth unto a man, neither shall a man put on a woman’s garment: for all that do so are abomination unto the LORD thy God.)
在西方传统里,所以男女有别,女性是不能穿裤子这样的衣服的。当时的一种“科学”理论是认为女人下体必须保持通风,体内的气才能流畅。不仅是外衣,内衣也如此,不能穿分筒的内衣(divided undergarments)。这个习惯,也是到十九世纪末才改掉的。
小孩穿这样的裙装,其实就是在说小孩是像女性一样,是从属性地位的人,因为这时管教他的是母亲。Mintz 在 Huck’s raft: a history of American childhood 一书中有一段讲这个的(黑体是我加的):
The period in which a child was primarily under a mother’s care (a stage that early Americans called “infancy”) was brief, lasting until the age of six or seven. During this period both boys and girls wore dresses or gowns, a visual symbol of their dependent status. In New England as in the Old World, the end of infancy was marked by a ceremony called breeching, in which a boy began to wear pants. Breeching not only marked the transfer of supervision and control over boys from mothers to fathers; it also signaled an increase in work responsibilities
可见看到,小孩子(文中主要是新英格兰地区)在六七岁以前由母亲带,男孩女孩都穿长衣(long dresses)或罩衫(gown)。到六七岁时,参加了一个叫 breeching 的仪式,就开始穿裤子(那时流行的裤子,叫 breeches)。这时对男孩的管教,就由母亲转为父亲,而男孩的地位也开始增加,因为这时他就要下田务农了。
换回来,穿裙子其实不适合做农活。所以其实务农时,女性也是会穿很像男人的裤子一样的装束,但是收工后或参加社交场合,比如教堂活动时,还是会穿回她们应该的衣服。
那,这事情为啥到二十世纪初,尤其是一次大战时结束了。
一个是对儿童的观念变化。儿童从单纯的需要管教和惩罚的地位,上升到了需要遵重和引导的地位(William Wordsworth 所说 “The Child is father to the Man”)。
还是引 Mintz 的书(黑体依然是我加的):
Early twentieth-century parents sensed that they were living in a new era, fundamentally different from the one preceding it. Self-conscious modernity was the defining characteristic of this era. Every aspect of childhood was transformed. Instead of clothing infants in white gowns, a symbol of asexual innocence, baby girls began to be dressed in white and baby boys in blue. In another symbol of gender difference, boys started to wear pants and have their hair trimmed at two or three, three or four years earlier than in the past. Meanwhile a new commercial children’s culture appeared, as store-bought toys replaced their homemade predecessors and children’s book series proliferated. But the development that dominated public attention was the impression that the young were far more independent and less deferential than their predecessors.
可见儿童在这时被认为更加独立,所以,男女有别也就早早被提了上来。
另一个相关的,对儿童的观念变化,是少年法庭系统的出现。以前的时候,对青少年犯罪的想法是严惩,死刑更多的用在未成年年犯罪者身上。这之后,就越来越少了,到现在,虽然死刑没有消除,但对未成年人的死刑已经被废止了。
相对应的,是女权的突起。一次大战后发生了什么?女性被动员起来援战,取代参战的男性参加工作。所以,男子的服装,尤其是裤子,也被女性广泛采纳了,也被社会认同了。1918 年时,英国通过了 Representation of the People Act 1918,30 岁以上的女性有了投票权。
大约就是这样。
其实完全可以不用提女性的部分,但我觉得历史是盘根错节的,还是多讲点好。
来源:知乎 www.zhihu.com
作者:talich
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